BODY FILLERS, PUTTY, ETC.

I'd like to get some opinions on what's being used as putty/body 
filler these days. I really liked the Dr. Microtools putty for its 
fine grain and no shrinkage qualities. My tube has reached the end of 
its shelf life (several years), and I'm told that the Doctor has gone 
out of business.

I remember trying the Squadron white putty when it first came out, but I thought it was too coarse compared to Dr. Microtools. So give me some suggestions on what (and what not) to use before I buy something that'll just end up in the trash can.

Chris Thompson ****HERE IS A TIP I PICKED UP ON THE MODEL CAR TALK-LIST**** The best filler for plastic is plastic. We have termed it "spru-goo" or something like that here on the MCL. Take some leftover sprue and disolve it in a small glass container of liquid cement or Tenax. This "goo" will become part of the plastic because it's the same plastic from your kit. The solvents melt the two together and it becomes a permanent part of your model. No ghost lines, no cracks or shrinkage. Great stuff! And the best part is that aside from the cost of the glue, it's free and easy to sand! If the mixture hardens from storage just add some liquid cement or Tenax to refresh... Jim...<><
I've found based on suggestions from Andy Harman and a few other guys that gap-filling CA is one of the best fillers around. What I do is apply thick CA, such as Zap-A-Gap, to a seem, crack, or gouge, sand it smooth (both dry and wet sand), and then apply Gunze Sangyo Mr. Surfacer, a thick gray primer, over top. The Mr. Surfacer settles at the bottom, and if you pick out some of the goop with a toothpick, you can spread it around with a brush to fill all the little cracks and any irregularities in the sanded CA surface. I use this combination on this like the seams in Cannon & Co. short hoods, and the depressions that sometimes show up in Athearn dynamic brake hatches where the injected plastic didn't fill up the mold completely. Works great. The only trick is finding a source for Gunze Sangyo - military modeling-oriented hobby shops often carry the stuff. It's the best primer/filler out there. Dave Olsen My Squadron white has stayed in the box as I use Milliput Superfine White two part putty exclusively when I want a fine finish. It is extremely fine and I have been very satisfied with it. I think I got it from the Micromark catalog---don't know if it is still listed. If not, the UK address is: The Milliput Co. Unit 5 The Marian Dolgellau, Mid Wales LL40 1UU Tel 0341 422462 Bob Zoeller I use Sea Goin' Poxy Putty by Permilite Plastic Corp. of Newport Beach, Ca. It is great for filling gaps and seams to casting parts to grafting surfaces on to styrene, and more. It feathers in well when sanding to where when it's finished and painted it can't be detected. It is a bit sticky when first mixed the slowly sets and remains workable for about and hour or so. It fully sets over night. After you get use to it's handling it will probably be one of your most important modeling materials -- it is for me. Jim Bright In my opinion there is no question as to the best putty to use. Automobile lacquer spot putty. It can be purchased at any automotive paint store in several colors. I have a tube that I bought about 10 years ago that I have only used a fraction of, and it cost me about $5.00. I will never go back to any of the Squadron or Dr. Microtools putties. Stuart Thayer You might want to pick up a copy of the Jan/Feb 2001 issue of N-Scale Magazine. On page 50, Bob Hundman wrote an article about his putty slurry. I started using his slurry mix after listening to him extol its virtues during a discussion on styrene scratchbuilding techniques a couple of years ago. It really works slick. You might want to try it. The slurry consists of a tube of Green Max putty mixed with styrene solvent cement to whatever consistency you like to work with. Kert Peterson Having been in the boat building business most of my life, I a familiar with and use a variety of fillers for different purposes. For fairing up a wooden surface, we often mix up a witches brew of "West System" fast cure epoxy and Micro Balloons. This mix allows one to control the density of the filler material. The more micro balloons that are added, the more porous the cured filler becomes, even being as light as high density foam. The resulting fill can be carved, planed or sanded as it has the same density of the material it is filling when mixed correctly. These products can be purchased from most resin or marine supply companies. For a super fine fill we use an automotive filler known as "Nitro Stan" made by the Standard Coating Corp. Ridgefield NJ 07657 phone (201) 945-5058. Nitro Stan is a fast drying lacquer based ultra fine filler that can be used for filling small nicks and dents prior to painting. It is not intended to be used as a large void filler as it will sag, shrink and crack if applied too thick. Another trick filler can be made from CA Glue and whiting (chalk powder). I have even used cake flour when in a hurry doing model work. Always remember that the filler you use should be slightly less dense than the surface you are using it on it you intend to sand it fair. Otherwise you will end up with the filler standing proud while the matrix is sanded away. I hope this information will be of use to you. Jay Greer/Trax Inc. I have to agree with Stu on this. Auto body "glazing" or "spot potty" is all I've used for the last 10 years or so. It's easy to use-- dries quickly with minimal (if any) shrinkage, has a long shelf life, is cheap and easy to find. Mike Budde Couldn't agree more. My body filler is 3M spot putty. I have at times reduced it to a slurry with MEK but dislike the fact that I have to wait overnight for ti to dry when thinned. As it comes in different colours, I can build layers, sanding between each until the surface is smooth. Then with a final sanding with 2400 grit wet/dry the final surface looks almost like the original surface. Lawton Maner

TOP

S.A. McCall