Future Floor finish is manufactured by: S.C. Johnson & Sons
                                        Racine, Wi. 53403-2236

For more information on Future and other products go to S.C. Johnson 

On the bottle(1pt 11oz) I'm looking at there are recommendations for
removing Future after every 6-8 applications(on floors).  The recommended
removal method is to use 1 cup ammonia and 1/4 cup Armstrong Floor Cleaner
in 1/2 gallon of cool water.  This amount should make the correct amount for
submerging a typical plastic body to strip.

Seems strange there is no mention of Future on their web site!

The following if from a talk-list...


Future can and should be airbrushed, and can be done so straight from the
bottle without thinning.  This stuff is already much thinner than any paint.
When airbrushing, the desired level of gloss must be built up in thin layers
to prevent puddles and runs. Experiment, and don't put the airbrush too
close to the model as it puddles and runs much quicker than paint.  Using
Future over dark colors, black in particular, you may experience a milky
haze forming. when you see this happening stop at once and let the future
dry completely before adding any more layers. It will go away as the Future
hardens.  For me, this haze has always gone away if allowed to dry. I model
Clinchfield and naturally paint a lot of black cars and have seen this
often.  Dry means a couple days. Others may be able to, but when Future is
dry and has fully hardened I can not scratch it with my finger nail unlike
Testors finishes.

During decaling, you may notice the haze forming around the decal after the
setting solutions have started doing their thing. My advice here is to get
good at positioning decals rapidly and don't panic. This is the moisture
softening the Future.  A Future coated floor will do the same thing if water
is allowed to stand on it for a period of time. Again don't panic when it
starts to turn white and by all means don't touch it either.  Also don't use
excessive amounts of setting agent (that is leave big puddles on the decal
to air dry).  As the agent reacts with the Future, you may get a "fisheye"
in the gloss coat around the decal.

I always coat with future after decals or dry transfers as well.  This gives
the paint and markings a uniform level of gloss on which to apply the flat
finish, eliminating the old problem of the decals/ transfers drying more
flat than the paint.

I hope to be able to attend the fall meet where I have tenatively offered to
demonstrate the technique.  This process is not that difficult or any more
time consuming than solvent type clear coats.  It does take getting used to,
and I recommend practicing on some models you don't mind stripping  if you
goof. It is not a technique for the unskilled and I don't recommend trying
this or any new technique on your latest prize effort.

Personally I will never go back to solvent gloss coats. With Future, there
are no offensive fumes, water clean up, a highly superior finish when
applied correctly, and cheap too!!  The next best finish is probably Floquil
Crystal Coat in my opinion and it is difficult to apply well and is a very
very distant second.

 I recently finished a Southern gondola using this Future technique and a
set of Herald King decals.  I will gladly put this one up to anybodies to
compare finishes with the best.  As close as six inches from the face in all
but the brightest light, at any angle the decals are nearly filmless, and
have the same flatness as the paint

Give it as shot, and if any of you have more questions please ask.

Mike Baskette

S.A. McCall